My parents, sister, and I were famished by the time we arrived at Sassafras for dinner. My parents and I were in Greenville, South Carolina, for the weekend to visit my older sister during her college's Family Weekend. We had originally hoped to eat at Trio, a popular downtown restaurant where my sister and I had eaten many times in the past. Unfortunately, there was a line around the corner and wait of two hours for Trio.
After strolling through downtown Greenville, reviewing various other restaurants' menus, we decided on Sassafras, a restaurant designed to create a homey yet upscale southern feel. My sister and her friends had eaten there a few times, and one of her friends had seen Corey Smith, a country singer, eating there. The menu seemed to have much variety and an extensive wine list. Originally a cigar warehouse, we were intrigued to see how the new owners had re-vamped the place. Reservations were suggested, but, fortunately, we were able to get a seat inside with no problem. The patio was already full- a sign that this restaurant was already a "hit" with the locals.
As soon as I walked in, I could tell that the owners of Sassafras were trying way too hard. The wait-staff was all in black, but not in a matching way, creating the sense that all of the waiters had received a memo to wear black, but no one communicated a specific outfit. The menus were literally huge- and I don't mean just a huge selection. The menus were covered in wood and difficult to maneuver. In fact, when our waitress took the menus from us, my dad jokingly asked if she needed a wheelbarrow to carry them. She laughed and responded, “Seriously!”
The decorations were lacking and did not necessarily match with the theme of the restaurant. In fact, it had a gentlemen's lodge ambiance about it, completed by the bulkiness of everything and the absence of southern wall décor. Also, the music playing was jazz, which made me wonder if I was in Copeland's. The restaurant owners, Brant and Joe Kennedy, needed a consultant and some assistance in designing and executing their idea for Sassafras Southern Bistro.
The lighting was so dim that we could barely see to walk through the restaurant. I actually ran into a black chair because it blended so well. Our table was chunky and wooden, and the legs were placed on terrible positions so that we all had a bar between our knees. The table was also just low enough that none of us could cross our legs. It was a table for six, although there were only four of us, which made for an odd seating arrangement around the table, as well as confusion as to why we were not seated at the table made for four that was next to us.
Thankfully, our waitress redeemed the uncomfortable seating with her vivacious personality. She was friendly and was not pushy at all regarding our orders. However, she did forget one of the chef's specials for the night and had to look it up, making her seem unprepared. The food was by far the best part of our meal. The chef, Brian Stewart, was actually a founding employee of Sassafras and an acclaimed chef in the food world. It was evident why he stayed around- his food was truly incredible. Every bite was a delicious surprise followed with repeating bursts of flavor.
Our appetizer was a small order of the blue-crab nachos, one of the restaurant's specialties. As soon as it arrived, I realized that the portion sizes at this restaurant were a contributor to obesity in America. Our “small” order was more like an extra-large. All four of us ate it, and there was still some left over. Biting into the nachos was an incredible experience; they were filled with a creamy cheese, copious amounts of blue-crab, jalapenos, and tomatoes. Delicious.
Reading through the menu, the options were a generous, but now overwhelming, number. Our waitress was very helpful when my mother could not decide between the Beef Tips, Charleston Shrimp and Grits, and Pork Loin with Apple Chutney. The waitress guided her in the direction of her personal favorite, the Pork Loin, which proved to be a solid choice. My sister was not feeling well, so she got the Cream of Mushroom and Asparagus, an unexciting but flavorful option. After one spoonful, I was satisfied but not necessarily eager to have more. The soup needed a bit more spice, perhaps some parsley, to give it a little extra zing.
Dad's choice was incredible! He had the Country-Fried Turkey Cutlets, which were a new concept to me but seemed to please my dad. Once again, portion size was ridiculous and even my father, a grown man with the appetite of a football player, could not finish his entree. However, the best was my own choice, the Fried Chicken. Flavor leaped off the chicken with each bite. Stuffed with country ham, cream cheese, parmesan, and spinach, blended with the white wine sauce, I could hardly stop my addiction after the first bite. I wanted to eat all of it and not share a single bite! A substitute of sweet potato fries for mashed potatoes, along with sauteed spinach, completed the perfection that was my dinner. Throughout the meal, my simplistic sister, who had ordered mere soup, was practically begging for more of my sweet potato fries. They were just salty and crispy enough to give it that down-home taste that the restaurant had been trying so desperately to establish.
My order of fried chicken with white wine sauce. Mmm!
While I complain consistently regarding the portion size, I must say that our left-overs the next night in my sister's apartment were almost as good as the night before. We fought over who got to eat the remains of my fried chicken, and who had to eat my sister's soup. The soup paled in comparison to my intensely flavorful fried chicken.
My family, still excited from our main course, felt disappointed when the dessert menu arrived. We were expecting a variety of southern desserts like pecan pie and coconut cake and instead saw the options of homemade ice cream and peanut butter pie. While these desserts sounded tasty, in our minds, they were average compared to the delicious entrees we had just consumed. Longing for a flavorful finish to our meal, we chose a quaint and interesting coffee shop where the local college students often visit. Although our dessert there was fine, my family and I still wish that Sassafras's dessert options had been far more spectacular and eye-catching.
The exquisite food, paired with excellent service, made for a fantastic evening at Sassafras, despite the awkward décor. My only complaints are for the interior designer and the creator of the dessert menu. All compliments go to Chef Brian Stewart!
Sassafras Southern Bistro
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